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Thread: Drag radial Poll

  1. #1
    Inactive Member Mr Rogers's Avatar
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    Question

    I have the Nitto 555R drag radials and a guy at the track told me that even though they were "Drag" radials that I shouldn't drive throught the burn out box because they are still "Radials" and that they will get slicker and not stickier. Is this true? All night long I was just pulling around the box but I really don't know if the guy was right or wrong so what do you guys think?

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    98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type

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    Inactive Member CivicR's Avatar
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    You should burn out with them...you need to get them real hot!!...if you want to verify that just give Nitto a call....thats what I did...if you ran those runs on the Nitto's without burning out before...thats damn good....my friend has the Nitto 555r's on his Teg with a JRSC and if we try to run them without lowering the tire pressure and burning out he just spins like crazy!!

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    John
    Hey what you got in there??(In a redneck voice)
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    B18C1 powered Civic EX Coupe
    '92 Civic VX Hatch...being prepared for MAD BOOST!

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    Inactive Member Ho_Train's Avatar
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    Use the burn out box. More heat = more traction. Make sure to drop the pressure a pound or two, so the heat can put the pressure back in.

  4. #4
    Inactive Member reddelsol's Avatar
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    or email them.
    http://www.nittotire.com/contactus.asp

    I thought it was with slicks OR drag radials: /wet tires/ spin till they squeel/ stage

    Some people do some additional short burns or dry jumps after this, but I've read that probably does nothing and in fact may cause you to lose heat from the tires.

  5. #5
    Inactive Member 12SecGSR's Avatar
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    dry jumps are noot to heat the tire...
    they make sure that the tires are sticky, and clean... ie if you try a dry jump and it spins, you back up and burn them longer... hth

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    94 GSR drag gen 3 turbo
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  6. #6
    Inactive Member reddelsol's Avatar
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    For what it's worth: What I read was, if you dry jump and the tire "is" ready, but then you've lost some heat in the tire by doing it. So, it's better not to do it, but just make sure you've done a good burn out in the first place. And from experience, you should know when a burn-out is sufficient.

    And rather than doing a dry jump, if you doubt the tire stickiness, then better to just do a second burn.

  7. #7
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    There is a purpose for "dry burning" your tires after a good burn out... remember that immediately after your burnout, your tires are soooo sticky that they adhere to everything... every pebble and clump of rubber between you and the staging beams is now stuck to your tires !!!

    The remedy: Quickly roast the tires as you approach the line to CLEAN THEM OFF.


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    '93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
    Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

  8. #8
    Senior Hostboard Member JRCivic's Avatar
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    reddelsol... the next time you are at the track, IF you are running slcks, do your burnout and then roll forward... and as you roll, have someone rub their hand across the tires. Then ask them what is stuck there as well as what they knocked off while rubbing...

    If you are running radials, this is much less of a problem because the compounds are harder.

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    '93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
    Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph

  9. #9
    Inactive Member Mr Rogers's Avatar
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    Well I got an answer from Nitto and they told me the most important thing is getting them up to 100 degrees, weather in the box (burn out that is wink) or not. I think I am gonna ty the burn out box this week and see what happens. I think I will have to tell the track officials that they are DOT certified drag radials because they are alway directing people with regular, or what seems to be regular radials around the box. Thanks for the added suggestions though.

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    98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type

  10. #10
    Inactive Member reddelsol's Avatar
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    <BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRCivic:
    There is a purpose for "dry burning" your tires after a good burn out... remember that immediately after your burnout, your tires are soooo sticky that they adhere to everything... every pebble and clump of rubber between you and the staging beams is now stuck to your tires !!!
    <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

    I suppose, but at the track I go to, we line up directly behind whatever car is currently running.

    If the track were dirty (especially with pebbles) my windshield would probably be cracked by rear wheel drive cars slinging rocks during their burn-outs.

    Plus, every once in awhile they are spraying some area of the track off, so I imagine even when it does get some debris on it, it gets washed off as soon as it's noticed.



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